For my birthday this year, I decided to give myself the gift of alone time and plan a short trip somewhere. I opted for Mayne Island, one of the Southern Gulf Islands a 55-minute ferry ride away from Swartz Bay on Vancouver Island. One of the smaller of the Gulf Islands, Mayne’s Indigenous name is SḴŦAḴ in SENĆOŦEN, the language of the W̱SÁNEĆ people who are part of the Coast Salish Nation.

My idea of “me time” involves being outside exploring woods, strolling along beaches, and hiking up mountains before a quiet, relaxing evening of watching the sun go down. Read on for my observations of places I explored while on Mayne Island!

If you do a simple Google search for trails on Mayne Island, you won’t see many options appear. During the journey with BC Ferries, be sure to grab a map as this will highlight the various trails that are available.

After driving out of Village Bay ferry terminal, I took a right down Dalton Rd and headed towards Dinner Bay Park, which is home to the Japanese Garden. A little oasis, the garden was beautifully serene. It was created to honour the large community of Japanese people that lived on the Island between 1900 and 1942, before they were interned as a result of the Pacific War. Entrance is free but there is a donation box. I dropped in a $5 bill which was the only cash on me and a small gesture of appreciation for the volunteers who do a great job maintaining this gem.

From Dinner Bay Rd, I drove down Mariners Way, turned right onto Marine Drive, then joined the narrow Navy Channel Rd. I parked off road and walked down to the beach that is known as Conconi Reef Community Park. The ferry from Saturna Island will pass through Navy Channel en route to collect passengers from Mayne. As I walked back up from the beach, a starling on the path tottered ahead, only to stop and look back at me, hop a few more paces, then stop again. It did this for a minute or so, as if showing me the way to go.

Something I really liked about Mayne was the limited signage. I realize this might seem like an odd thing to like. Indeed, when I’d looked on Google Maps for ideas of where to go, some people had written reviews complaining about the lack of signage. To me this is a sad reflection of a modern society in which people want things instantly and with zero inconvenience. It’s as if humans have reached such a point of anxiety that they’re afraid to get lost or make mistakes, and don’t know how to be resourceful. Maybe it’s childhood memories of my parents turning the car round while road tripping through a foreign country, but I enjoy the process of trial and error. It feels more adventurous. And hey, it’s made me great at 3-point turns!

I parked my car off Simpson Rd and walked up Punch’s Alley – a pathway flanked by large meadows – into Henderson Park. The striking turqouise-blue shell of a cracked starling egg near the entrance of another pathway signalled the start of the Doreen McLeod trail, which takes you on a tranquil walk through lush vegetation down to a pebble beach overlooking Navy Channel.

By the time I returned to my car, it was two o’clock and I was feeling peckish. I drove up Gallagher Bay Rd, passing dogwalkers that would wave, and turned left onto Fernhill Rd, passing a bookstore and farmstore on the left and an elementary school on the right where children played ball games. There’s a little village in Miners Bay with a library, bakery, restaurant, grocers, and a community park. Sunny Mayne Bakery has housemade sandwiches and baked goods.

As I sat eating, a car honked loudly from outside. The group of locals that were sat on the patio enjoying afternoon coffee and cake looked over in its direction with surprise. The aggressive noise seemed so out of place in this quaint little hub. The driver of the vehicle was trying to get the attention of the passenger that had gotten out. There was no doubt they were a tourist. What was that I said about people wanting things instantly with no inconvenience..?

Not wanting to contradict myself on the topic of convenience, but the reality is that we all need to access WiFi sometimes. Cross the road to the public library and you should be able to get signal from the outside porch. (Because I hate being that person who goes inside a place and says “I’m just looking to use your WiFi.”) For groceries, Tru Value Foods has a pretty large selection of foods, including a deli section. The Trading Post on Fernhill Rd has a fairly limited selection of food but is the place to go for alcohol. I proactively handed the cashier my ID, and she said in a cheery voice that she wasn’t even going to ask me. Is this what happens when you turn 31?

My accommodation was an airbnb right inside Mt. Parke, accessed via a private track road. The views from the balcony and living room of Raven’s Nest cottage were gorgeous – a peaceful place to sit and watch eagles and turkey vultures gliding through the sky. The hosts provided lots of amenities (including binoculars) and put a lot of thought into little details.

One of the things I wanted to see most on Mayne Island was the view from the top of Mt. Parke. I joined the track that continued from the airbnb and turned right up a narrow trail. (If you take the trail on the left, you join a network of trails within Plumper Pass Community Park.) At the ridge, the views were similar to those seen from Mt. Warburton Pike on Saturna Island, but no less impressive or exciting. A dazzling vista of lush green islands, sparkling blue ocean, and distant mountains. At the cliff edge, I looked down to see a blanket of Douglas, Fir and Red Cedar trees below. This would have been a bad time to turn around and see a cougar or bear. Thankfully, there are none of those on the Island!

*Maps indicate that the trail to the summit can be accessed from Kim Rd or Mt. Parke Rd. The latter is technically a private road that I was only allowed to take because I was an airbnb guest within the park. Expect to be asked to leave if you’re not a guest and you’ve parked before the emergency gate.

Satisfied with the day’s activities, I returned to my airbnb and spent the evening looking out at the view, watching the hourly ferry sailing through Active Pass to and from the mainland. The white-capped North Shore mountains behind Vancouver were visible in the distance as the sky softened into a palette of lilac and pink. I spent a lot of time peering through the binoculars in hopes of seeing a whale, but no luck this time.

After a peaceful sleep in a comfy bed, I woke early the next morning, ready for an active day. Hummingbirds zoomed past the kitchen window and hovered at the feeder. First, I drove to Horton Bay Rd and took a right on Beechwood Drive to access the other side of Henderson Park. There’s a small parking lot at the end of a short gravel track. The Vulture Ridge Viewpoint Trail up Henderson Hill was a fun, moderately steep hike about 1km long. Along the way, a couple of deer looked up timidly from behind the trees before trotting off gracefully.

The viewpoint looked out at the Navy Channel sea passage in front of North Pender Island. Bald eagles and turkey vultures soared overhead. An informational board explained that turkey vultures will vomit their food if a predator or human comes across them eating their prey. This is so they can fly off to safety with as little weight hindering them as possible. They also pee on their own legs to help stay cool. (I found this interesting but I apologize if you were eating while reading that..!)

Due to its location, this would probably be a great place to watch the sunset. After spending several minutes admiring the view, I came back down via the East Boundary Trail.

Next, I drove back to Horton Bay Rd and turned right to go down to St. John Point Regional Park. This was a place that had received some negative reviews on Google for being “hard to find.” Either those people are blind or things have been updated, because there was a sign referencing the park’s name. A small parking lot can be found at the end of a short gravel track.

I followed a grassy path down to Kadonaga Bay and then joined a trail into the woods. As I crouched down to retie my shoelace, a dog that looked like a mix of a Poodle and Border Collie bounded up from behind and jumped on me excitedly before running off again. Things became a little calmer in the forest, which was filled with the peaceful sound of birdsong. Decorated with Arbutus trees, the trail along coastal bluffs overlooking Plumper Sound was lovely. I imagine this would be a great place to spot whales and other sea life, but none of them fancied making an appearance today.

As I rejoined the grassy path, the dog reappeared, tail wagging madly and tongue shaking saliva. I spent a couple of minutes giving him belly and head scratches before asking “Where’s home?” Upon hearing the H word, he galloped off suddenly without a goodbye. And that was that.

Next on my itinerary was a visit to Campbell Point on the north east of the island. Off Wilkes Rd there’s a shaded parking lot in front of Bennett Bay Beach. Along the Campbell Point Trail I greeted a few friendly locals walking their dogs. Part of the Gulf Island National Park Reserve, the tip of the park looks out over Georgia Strait and towards Saturna Island. I’d recommend coming here for sunrise as I imagine the view would be wonderful.

I followed a trail back along the bay, passing a heron perched on a rock down below the cliff. The beach was sandy, but overall it wasn’t as amazing as I’d expected it to be from my reading. I don’t know if it was because the tide was out or there was a boat launch jutting out that affected the view, but this beach just didn’t do it for me for some reason. That said, I’m sure there are many that would love it.

I was curious to explore Mt. Parke from the actual public trailhead. Afterall, it’s not just about the view at the top, but the journey to get there! So I headed inland and parked at the end of Kim Rd off Felix Jack Rd. The Mary Jeffery Nature Appreciation Park Lowland Nature Trail is a loop trail. I took the southern side of the trail, from where you can turn off briefly to view the aptly named Giant Arbutus Tree. I then took a right and joined the Halliday Ridge trail which takes you on a lovely route through the forest. Along the way, I spotted a woodpecker working away on a fallen log. It’s about 2km to get up to the ridge. I was having one of those days where my energy seemed limitless (that dog’s saliva must have had something special in it) and I made it up to the top very quickly.

As the trail began to elevate, I came to a section with a map indicating where the trail entered private property. The words “Continue at your own risk” were written. (My instant reaction was that the sign was warning of violence, but when I told my manager a few days later, she said it was more likely related to law suits.)

At the viewpoint, I saw a couple sat on the bench. Not wanting to disrupt (you never know, maybe he was about to pop the question!) I continued along the trail for a few minutes. If you keep left, the trail will eventually join private property.

The viewpoint had a bench you could rest on and an informational board that displayed the names of the Gulf islands, sea passages, and mountains in view. I can definitely identify Plumper Sound, Saturna Island, and the Pender Islands, but I still get confused by the others. One day I’ll know them all!

I came back down via the Old Gulch trail. If you want to go up to the Mt. Parke summit, there’ll be a sign along this trail indicating an option to join the Plumper Pass Community Park Loop. Take this option and there’ll be a few signs along the route directing you towards the viewpoint. After a kilometre or so, you’ll cross the private track of Mt. Parke Rd and join the narrow viewpoint trail.

Once back at my car, it was onto Campbell Bay as I was curious to see the beach here. There isn’t an official sign indicating a beach, but when you pass a house on the right, there’s some space off the road that seems intended for cars. You then take a short walk down a hill…and boy, what a lovely beach awaits. I’m really glad I stopped here as it made up for the “meh” reaction I had to Bennett Bay. What a beautiful spot! I’d read that Campbell Bay is one of the best places for swimming, and I regretted not bringing my swimsuit down with me. I had a quick paddle instead, admiring the cleanliness of the water. This side of the island sees less boat traffic which probably contributes to the beach’s charm. I could have spent a while sitting on one of the many driftwood logs under the gentle breeze of the trees. I’ll definitely spend more time here if I visit in future. It would be a great place to kayak too!

From Campbell Bay, I drove along Waugh Rd and turned right down Georgina Point Rd. People that get anxious about a lack of signage, be warned: there isn’t a huge big sign inidicating it, but the small road will lead you to the famous lighthouse. A seal swam close to the shore as a ferry from the Mainland approached Active Pass. I will have passed this lighthouse many times without much thought. It’s nice to know that now whenever I’m on the ferry heading to Vancouver, I can see this beacon and say “I stood there.”

After the lighthouse, I continued in the opposite direction down Georgina Point Rd. It’s a pretty drive past the small boats in Miners Bay. After stocking up on food at Tru Value Foods on Village Bay Rd, I returned to my airbnb for another walk up to the Mt. Parke ridge before a relaxing evening of staring at the views of Active Pass and willing a whale to appear. (It did not.)

With my ferry to Vancouver Island not leaving until after noon, I checked out of my airbnb around 9 a.m. so I could get a couple more walks in. On my way out, I met one of my hosts for the first time. He seemed surprised that I was visiting by myself. I have to remind myself that some people still find it strange that someone in a relationship might want to go on a trip by themselves, or that a young-looking female would want to travel somewhere alone. For me, having alone time helps me be better in my relationship, friendships and job by giving me time to recharge. I hope it’s something we will start to normalize in society as I think being comfortable with one’s company is healthy and beneficial!

I drove through Village Bay and continued along Waugh Rd, squinting at house numbers to see if I was close to the trailhead listed on my map. Naturally, I had to turn around. A car came up behind as I midway through turning. The car stopped at a distance and didn’t move again until I was facing the right direction. The driver then waved at me as they passed. See, going wrong and turning around ain’t so scary!

I parked in a grassy space and walked about a hundred metres back up the road before turning left up a trail marked with a sign that said Chu-an Park. It was a short trail that got quite steep near the end. The view of Georgia Strait was a little underwhelming as the map had made it seem like there would be a bigger view. But a good workout, nonetheless. Another thing about this trail was that I kept seeing signs noting a park boundary, and yet in a couple of places it wasn’t very clear where the trail was and therefore whether or not I was on private property. I’d hate for someone to be yelled at or threatened with legal action (or worse) for making an innocent mistake.

This leads me onto the one thing I didn’t like about Mayne: the abundance of private property signs in certain places. I understand the desire for quiet and solitude, but the prevalance of signs seemed to demonstrate a paranoia or suspicion of strangers that seemed slightly excessive. People are entitled to do what they want with their money when it comes to buying property, but do you really need THAT many signs? It all seemed rather passive-aggressive. I think the concept of private property is simply still quite new to me, as it’s not really something I came across growing up in England. My family lived in a rented house in a national park where all were welcome and visitors were trusted to stay on the path, so I have a different outlook. (Now, if you left a gate open and sheep got out, you could then expect a yelling from the farmers..!)

From here, I drove east and parked at the end of Edith Point Rd. A short trail leads down to the shore, overlooking Georgia Strait. Many have reported seeing whales here. I can’t say I was one of them. Sigh. But it was a lovely spot. My host had recommended a trail that leads round to Campbell Bay. He said it involved crossing private property. I probably should have written down his instructions because it wasn’t clear to me where said trail began. I didn’t fancy being sued for accidentally stepping on someone’s patch of soil, so I didn’t bother looking.

I stayed a little while looking at the view before heading back to my car and driving back the way I’d come, turning right down Cotton Rd which leads to Cotton Community Park. The Orca Trail (named because it’s a common spot for people to see whales, unless you’re me ;)) takes you along the foreshore overlooking Active Pass. It’s a lovely tranquil walk. As I sat enjoying the sounds of the water lapping against the shore, a movement caught my eye. A sea otter popped up and roamed around the shoreline hunting for food. A few times he would dip back down into the water with a flick of his tail before surfacing again. He then came onto the beach to enjoy his catch. Sea otters are one of my favourite animals so to be able to watch that fella for 10 minutes or so was a real treat and a lovely send off before I headed to the ferry terminal.

How do I sum up my me time on Mayne Island? It was a lovely quiet place where I could switch off and relax, fortunate to have most of the trails completely to myself. An interesting mix of friendly and patient locals, combined with a slightly off-putting prevalence of private property signs. A great getaway for the individual, in a place that values privacy.

Having spent my birthday on the Island, I came away with a reminder of the attitude I want to take on this next journey around the sun: stay curious, don’t be afraid of going wrong, and make time for me time, but be open to the goodness of strangers.